Istanbul: Not Constantinople, Modern and Gay Friendly?

OK. First things first: Turkey’s proximity to some more dangerous areas of the world has given it a bad rap. While a move toward a more conservative government has prompted more women to wear head scarves (and even the occasional burka), Istanbul is as modern — and safe — as any other European city. You’ll even find a couple of lesbian bars, but in this Muslim-centric city, gay couples might want to keep PDA to a minimum.

With its many winding roads and lack of street signs, Istanbul might be one of the most difficult cities to navigate — even cabbies pull over to ask for directions. Keep a map with you and don’t be afraid to ask for help — Turkish people will not only give you directions, they’ll happily escort you to where need to go, making small talk along the way.

American travelers do need a visa, but it’s provided at the airport for $20.

Here’s a roundup of what to see, drink and do while in Istanbul.

See:

The Sultanahmet district is the heart of old Istanbul — it’s what you might picture when you think of Turkey, full of mosques, palaces and an assortment of other historical treasures. Fortunately, many highlights are quite close together, which makes for easy sightseeing.

Start in Sultanahmet Square, and first head to the Topkapi Palace — this former Ottoman Empire hub is best explored before the tour-bus crowds move in around 11 a.m. Home to sultans for centuries, you could spend a day exploring each part of this palace, which might be well advised for those who want to their money’s worth (the entrance fee is $7). But if you’re pressed for time (the Circumcision room isn’t as interesting as it sounds), hit up these three main spots.

The Haram, an additional $7 entrance fee, is a cave-like maze and was the home and prison to four centuries of palace concubines. Starting in the mid-1500s, these women fought, killed and manipulated their way up the harem hierarchy in hopes of having the sultan’s son who might make it to the throne — think of it as The Bachelor on steroids. The history may be sordid (murderous eunuchs? Check.), but the architecture is stunning with hundreds of brilliantly tiled chambers fit for a king.

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